Is it slippery?

Because stamped concrete is a textured surface, it is often more slip resistant than conventional concrete. However, just like natural stone, it can become slippery when wet or if a film-forming sealer has been applied. If stamped concrete will be installed in a high-traffic area, such as an entryway or pool deck, there are a number of things you can do to increase its slip resistance. Read these tips for improving the slip resistance of stamped concrete.

Can I use salt on it in the winter?

You should avoid using deicing salts on stamped concrete, especially during the first winter after the pavement is installed. Using deicers can cause surface damage—primarily scaling and spilling-by forcing the thawing and refreezing of moisture. Products containing ammonium nitrates and ammonium sulfates are especially harmful because they will actually attack the concrete chemically. Rock salt (sodium chloride) or calcium chloride will do less damage, but they can harm vegetation and corrode metal. As an alternative, use sand for traction. Read How to Maintain Your Concrete Driveway.

When your sod is installed, you should immediately begin watering it twice daily for one week then once daily with an inch of water (about fifteen to twenty minutes) during each session until the sod is rooted in the soil. This should only take a few weeks and is essential for a successful sod lawn. The soil should not ever dry out before the roots grow into the soil.

The best time to water your lawn is during the early morning (6am -9am) or evening (6pm-9pm) and not during the day. This is because less water is evaporated and your lawn will use the water more efficiently. Be aware that watering during the day will not damage your sod, but you may have to water longer.

Mowing: Determine mower timing by height of grass not the calendar. Cut no more than 1/2″ of grass at a time. If you want 3″ grass, wait till it is 3.5″, then mow.

Care is very important, particularly for the first month. Successful seed germination depends on a few days of special care. To assure proper germination water regularly. We suggest almost continuous watering in warm weather. Keeping the yard moist will maximize seed germination. You may walk on the hydro seeded surface when watering. Try to walk only on areas that are dry, and try to not disturb the mulch mat.

By watering regularly and keeping your new seedlings from drying out you insure the beginnings of a lawn that will make your neighbors green with envy.

Mowing can begin once the new lawn is 3″ tall in most areas. Mowing stimulates growth and increases thickness. Set the mower high at first, then gradually lower. Try to cut no more than 1/3 of the grass at a time. One general rule for mowing is that the shorter you want to mow the more often you need to mow to maintain healthy grass.

About one month after seeding, fertilize your new lawn using a high nitrogen (the first of the 3 numbers on the bag) fertilizer. We have used a high phosphorus or “starter fertilizer” when hydro-seeding your lawn. The phosphorus will stimulate root growth, and in the early stages it is important to get good root growth before you stimulate a vigorous top growth with nitrogen.

Talk to us about a program for continued care of your lawn with regular treatments of fertilizer and treatments for weed and insect problems as required.

Fertilization is a typical landscape maintenance activity. The purpose of adding fertilizer to turf, tree, or shrubs is to provide nutrients required for healthy root growth, color, and foliage growth.Fertilizers include three key elements- nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K). Turfgrasses require nitrogen in greater quantities than all other nutrients.

Generally speaking, lawns should be fertilized at least twice per year. For lawns to have the best possible appearance up to fourapplications a year may be required. Each application should be a fraction of the desired annual total. For example, if you fertilize three times a year then you should apply 1/3 of the desired annual amount each time you fertilize.

A lawn should only be fertilized when it is actively growing. Cool season grasses such as Kentucky Bluegrass, Tall Fescues, and bent grasses grow best in our cold climate. They respond well to fertilization after returning from dormancy in the spring and again in the late summer. Avoid applying fertilizers when the grass is dormant because this can promote weed growth.

It’s different for every lawn. A soil test can be done at your local garden center to determine what’s best for your lawn, however a good starter fertilizer is recommended for new lawns. For established lawns, 15-15-15 is a good ratio.

The ideal soil pH is between 6 and 7. When the soil pH drops below 6 the soil becomes more acidic and nutrients needed for proper turf growth become unavailable. Lime can be applied to soil to increase the pH above 6. A soil test can be done at your local garden center and can determine if/how much lime is required for your lawn.

For established lawns lime should be applied in either the fall or spring. Do not add lime when the turf is dormant or wilted and do not apply lime during frosty weather.

Water your lawn after applying lime.